Straight to the most important, how to button a suit:
What buttons to button on a suit?
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1 Button Suit Jacket: Obviously you button the only one
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2 Button Suit Jacket: Button only the top button
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3 Button Suit Jacket: Button the top and the middle button.
We hope that it helps in understanding the rules of when to button your suit jacket buttons. Now you know the suit button rule. Please help us spread the suit buttoning rules, once you know them you will just notice everyone that is doing it the wrong way. Along with understanding the suit buttons, it's essential to pair your suit with the right footwear. Mens leather dress shoes (find out how to make your own shoes) are a perfect complement to any suit style, enhancing your overall appearance with a touch of elegance and sophistication.
By the way, do you know the difference of a blazer vs suit jacket? Read our blog post about it.
Do it the right way:
Short History - Why don't we tie the bottom button?
You probably know by now that one should always leave the bottom button of a suit undone, but have you ever thought to wonder why this is? Well, legend has it that King Edward VII, who ruled in the early 1900s, started this trend. The story says he got so round in the belly that he couldn't fasten the bottom button of his suit jacket. In order not to offend the king, his employees started to leave their bottom button unbuttoned as well. This ‘trend’ then gradually spread from the UK to the rest of the world…and here we are today!
Sleeve Buttons on a Suit - Why are buttons on a man's suit sleeve
Regardless of if the sleeve buttons fill a function or not, a suit jacket will have one to four buttons on the sleeve. Since the sleeve buttons have no real function, some prefer 'fake holes' as these look better. Others argue the only or the best, way to see (read show off) a tailored suit is by looking at the sleeve buttons, as a tailored suit rarely has fake sleeve buttons.
2 sleeve buttons is casual, four buttons are formal. Choose the number of buttons according to when, and to what occasion(s), you will use the suit.
Regarding the space between the buttons, a general rule is that the buttons should touch. You don’t want a gap between the buttons, but you also don’t want them to overlap each other. When the buttons are so close that they touch without overlapping each other, then you have it right. Remember; this has a lot to do with taste and preference. Some prefer when the buttons overlap each other, whereas others like a bigger gap between each button. You decide!
Select the number of sleeve buttons that you want and real and with or without buttonholes - Hockerty 3D suit designer
1 Button Jackets
One-button jackets are flattering for slim men, and are often worn to black tie events (Tuxedos). We also recommend it to our tall customers, as it may better balance their proportions.
HOW TO WEAR IT: Buttoned when standing, unbuttoned when sitting.
2 Button Suit Jacket
A two-button jacket is one of the more classic looks, as it looks good on most (dare I say all?) body types. If you still have doubts after reading this post, this is the option you should choose.
HOW TO WEAR IT: Top button buttoned when standing, unbuttoned when sitting, bottom button never buttoned.
3 Button Suit Jacket
Three-button jacket suits are great for taller men because of the buttons' alignment. Take a look at our 3 button suits.
HOW TO WEAR IT: Top button optional to button or not, middle button is buttoned (even when sitting), bottom button unbuttoned.
4 Button Suit Jacket (Double-breasted)
A double-breasted jacket usually has four, six, or eight buttons, and it’s considered more formal than a single-breasted one.
Design Your Double-breasted Suit
Let's summarize some key concepts about suit buttoning:
| Aspect | 1 Button | 2 Buttons | 3 Buttons | 4 Buttons (Double-Breasted) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ideal for | Slim and Tall | Versatile (almost everyone) | Taller Men | Formal |
| Occasion | Black Tie, Evening Events | Versatile | Formal Business | Very Formal |
| Bottom Button | Buttoned | Never Buttoned | Never Buttoned | Depends on Style |
| Accessorizing Advice | Minimalist; focus on a statement watch or cufflinks | Open to versatility; pocket squares and tie bars work well | Opt for classic, subtle accessories | Stick to traditional formal accessories like pocket squares and boutonnieres |
Button your suit jacket with style
Real Vs Fake Sleeve Button Holes
One of the easiest ways of telling a tailor-made suit from an off the rack bought suit is looking at the sleeve- and lapel buttonholes.
A tailor-made suit is likely to have a real sleeve and lapel buttonholes, whereas an off the rack suit will always have fake ones. However, remember that a tailored suit can also have fake buttonholes. It's about your taste and preference.
So why do you need real buttonholes, you may ask?
Back in the days, you needed real sleeve buttonholes to be able to roll up your sleeves for work, hence the name work and surgeon sleeves. This has changed, and now a day it’s more about style than anything else. Some stylists say you should, as with the suit jacket, leave one button unbuttoned. This is truly a matter of taste; some like the style, some do it to show the world they have a tailored made suit, and others think it is unnecessary and a way of "bragging". If you were to leave one button unbuttoned, it should be the button closest to the hand.
It's time you decide what kind of suit you want. Check our 3D designer and consider all the information you already have:
Types of Suit Buttons
The marketplace offers a variety of suit buttons, each boasting unique features and advantages. Here's a rundown of some of the most common types:
- Pearlescent Buttons: Crafted from layers of pearlescent shell, these buttons add an elegant and sophisticated flair to your suit.
- Mother-of-Pearl Buttons: Made from mother-of-pearl shell layers, these buttons offer a smooth appearance with subtle color nuances.
- Wooden Buttons: These buttons are carved from wood, imparting a warm, natural look to your ensemble.
- Metal Buttons (also called brass buttons): Fashioned from metal, these buttons are both durable and sturdy. At Hockerty, you can choose from gold and silver options, available in two different finishes. Check out the final step in the configurator for more.
- Leather Buttons: These buttons, made of leather, bring a sophisticated and elegant touch to your suit.
Do you still have questions? Take a look:
FAQ: Suit Buttons
How do I properly fasten a suit button?
To fasten a suit button, gently slide it through the corresponding buttonhole. Be cautious not to force the button through, as it may cause damage or strain on the fabric. Ensure that the button is centered within the buttonhole and lies flat against the suit. Avoid pulling the fabric too tightly when fastening the buttons, as it can create an unsightly pulling effect and compromise your comfort.
Can I leave my suit jacket unbuttoned?
Yes, you can leave your suit jacket unbuttoned when standing and for sure unbuttoned when sitting, depending on the style and fit of the jacket. Leaving it unbuttoned allows for more freedom of movement and a relaxed appearance. However, it's essential to button up your jacket when you are in a more formal setting or if you prefer a more tailored and structured look.
What should I do if a suit button falls off?
If a suit button falls off, it's best to have it reattached by a professional tailor. Avoid using temporary fixes like safety pins, as they can damage the fabric. Take the suit to a reputable tailor who will expertly match the replacement button to the existing ones and ensure it is securely sewn in place.
Can I add additional buttons to my suit?
While it's possible to add extra buttons to your suit, it is generally not recommended. Suit buttons are placed strategically by the designer to ensure the optimal drape and fit. Adding extra buttons can disrupt the balance of the suit and compromise its overall appearance. If you feel your suit needs adjustment, it's best to consult a professional tailor for alterations.
How do I care for suit buttons?
To care for suit buttons, avoid exposing them to excessive moisture or harsh chemicals. When cleaning your suit, take care not to scrub or rub the buttons vigorously, as this may cause them to become loose or damaged. If necessary, use a mild detergent or spot cleaner specifically designed for delicate fabrics. It's also a good idea to store your suits in a garment bag or cover to protect the buttons from scratches or snags.
Are there any rules for buttoning vests or waist coats?
The general rule for buttoning vests or waist coats is to always leave the bottom button undone. This tradition dates back to King Edward VII, who unbuttoned his vest due to his expanding waistline. Buttoning all the buttons on a vest can create an uncomfortable strain on the fabric and restrict your movement. Fasten the top button if you desire a more formal appearance, or leave it unbuttoned for a slightly more casual look.
Can I mix and match buttons on my suit?
While mixing and matching buttons on a suit might seem like a creative idea, it's generally advisable to keep the original buttons intact. The buttons chosen by the designer are typically intended to complement the fabric and overall aesthetic of the suit. Changing buttons could potentially clash with the suit's style or compromise its visual coherence. If you wish to personalize your suit, consider alternative options like cufflinks or pocket squares.
Should I undo my suit buttons when sitting down?
Yes, it is customary to unbutton your suit jacket when sitting down. Leaving the jacket buttoned while seated can lead to unsightly creases and restrict your range of motion. However, if you are wearing a waistcoat or vest, it is typically left buttoned, as it is designed to provide a structured look even when sitting.
But, what is the right way of buttoning when sitting down? Here you have it:
Are there any exceptions to suit buttoning rules?
While the "sometimes, always, never" rule provides a good guideline, there are exceptions to consider. Some contemporary suit designs, such as those with a higher button stance or more relaxed fit, may allow for different buttoning variations. Additionally, personal style and individual body proportions can influence how you choose to button your suit. Ultimately, the most important aspect is to ensure you feel comfortable and confident in your attire.
