Quick Answer
Tommy Shelby's style centres on a fitted three-piece tweed or corduroy suit, a club collar shirt in white or subtle stripe, a matching waistcoat, a long wool overcoat in charcoal or navy, and black leather cap-toe boots. The key is impeccable tailoring and a muted, earthy palette.
Peaky Blinders made the 1920s feel urgent again. The show — set in post-WWI Birmingham and streaming globally on Netflix — earned a dedicated following not just for its storytelling but for what its characters wore. And no character defines the wardrobe of the series more completely than Thomas Shelby. His look is a study in sharp contrasts: working-class grit dressed up in Savile Row precision, tweed that fits like a second skin, overcoats worn like armour. Now, with Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man streaming on Netflix since March 2026 — Cillian Murphy returning as Tommy Shelby for the final chapter — the world is watching Shelby again. There has never been a better moment to understand — and own — this style.
Article at a Glance
- Tommy's signature palette — charcoal, grey, navy, brown and muted earth tones
- The essential pieces — three-piece suit, club collar shirt, waistcoat, overcoat, cap-toe boots
- Fabric choice — tweed and corduroy for suits; heavy wool for coats
- The Immortal Man — what the Netflix film (now streaming) adds to the Shelby style legacy
- How to recreate it — modern fits, do's and don'ts, and where to start
Tommy Shelby's Signature Style
The key to understanding Tommy Shelby's wardrobe is that every piece earns its place. There is no decoration for its own sake. His suits are tailored — not just fitted, but sculpted to his frame. The palette stays disciplined: near-black, charcoal, dove grey, navy, chocolate brown. Occasionally a muted check or herringbone breaks the surface. Nothing shouts.
This restraint is what makes the look so transferable to the modern wardrobe. The 1920s silhouette — higher rise trousers, longer jacket, matching waistcoat — translates naturally into today's tailoring revival. The flat cap aside, most of what Shelby wears would not look out of place on a 2026 runway.
Navy
Charcoal
Brown
Tweed Tan
White
"By order of the Peaky Blinders" — the line lands because of how it's delivered. But it also lands because of what he's wearing when he says it.
The Club Collar Shirt
No single garment defines Shelby more quietly than the club collar shirt. The rounded collar — popular in the early twentieth century and revived by Mad Men before Peaky Blinders gave it a second life — sits buttoned to the top, with no tie, projecting an almost aggressive self-assurance. Shelby wears it in white, in pale stripe, sometimes with a duotone contrast, always in high-quality cotton that holds its shape.
The club collar is versatile by nature. It reads formal enough for a board meeting and considered enough for a dinner. The trick is buttoning it to the top: never leave it open-necked, which collapses the whole aesthetic. The shirt should be slim but not tight — a clean line through the torso, no pulling at the chest.
White Shirt | White Club Collar Shirt | White Striped Shirt
2 Ply
Wrinkle free
Poplin
Premium 2ply no-iron white poplin Shirt with contrast collar
Floral
Easy iron
Jacquard
Premium easy-iron blue floral jacquard Shirt with hidden buttons
Slub
Linen-cotton
Steel Blue
Steel blue french cuff linen-cotton stretch Shirt
Tommy Shelby's Suits
Suits come in many different materials but Tommy Shelby tends to wear lighter fabrics compared to his brother Arthur and the other Shelby men — a detail that quietly conveys his position. Tweed and corduroy are his materials of choice: textured, characterful, grounded. He reaches for wool when circumstances demand formality. The construction is always three-piece.
The three-piece suit carries specific rules in Shelby's hands. The jacket lapels are wide — peak lapels, commanding — and the trousers sit high at the waist, falling with a generous break. The waistcoat bridges jacket and trouser so there is never a gap at the midriff. Everything works as a unit.
The Shelby Formula
Tweed 3-piece + white club collar shirt (no tie, top button done) + black cap-toe boots + flat cap
How to Replicate Tommy Shelby's Suit Style
- Select Tweed: Hardy tweed in subdued checks channels Tommy's working-class elegance
- Peak Lapels: A broad peak lapel exudes the boldness characteristic of Shelby's attire
- Subtle Palette: Embrace muted earthy tones like greys and browns for authenticity
- Waistcoat is Non-Negotiable: A matching vest is essential for that signature three-piece statement
- Attitude: Wear it with an air of quiet confidence to truly embody the Shelby spirit
Dark Blue Tweed Suit | Brown Tweed Suit | Grey Tweed Suit | Brown Corduroy Suit
Thomas Shelby's Waistcoat
The waistcoat is the most underused garment in most men's wardrobes, and Shelby's wearing of it is an education. He wears it over a shirt with no tie — a configuration that only works when the waistcoat fits precisely. Too loose and it looks borrowed; too tight and it strains. The fit must cover the trouser waistband entirely — any gap between waistcoat hem and trouser is the giveaway of an ill-fitted vest.
His waistcoats favour tweed, wool, and checkered patterns in the same earthy palette as his suits. A three-piece suit waistcoat will always match perfectly. But he occasionally wears a contrasting waistcoat — a dark navy with a brown tweed suit — for visual texture that never crosses into clashing.
Waistcoat Fit Checklist
☑ Covers the trouser waistband completely — no shirt showing at the midriff
☑ Back strap adjusted so the waistcoat lies flat
☑ Front sits flush — no pulling across the chest
☑ Bottom button left undone (standard tailoring rule)
☑ Armholes high enough that the waistcoat doesn't show below the jacket
Dark Blue Checkered | Brown Tweed | Dark Blue Tweed | Checkered Tweed | Grey Tweed
Wool Blends
Tweed
Forest green
Forest green tweed double breasted Suit
Wool Blends
Tweed
Donegal
Brown super 100s donegal tweed Suit
Wool Blends
Tweed
Donegal
Light brown super 100s donegal tweed double breasted Suit
Wool Blends
Tweed
Mustard
Mustard tweed double-breasted Suit
Wool Blends
Tweed
Forest green
Forest green tweed Suit
Wool Blends
Tweed
Donegal
Navy blue super 100s donegal tweed Suit
Tommy Shelby's Coats
Spot Tommy in a crowd and you will notice the coat before the suit. His overcoats are long, structured, and heavy — military in their weight and bearing. The colour palette narrows here: dark navy, charcoal, black. A wool overcoat in these tones pulls everything together and projects authority before a word is spoken.
The vintage and rustic quality of his style comes from the simplicity of these coats — minimal detailing, no unnecessary buttons, no flashy linings. This restraint is what keeps them timeless. A Shelby overcoat from the 1920s reads as contemporary now as it did then.
✓ Do
- Choose a length that hits mid-thigh or below — Shelby's coats are long
- Go for structured shoulders — no soft, unpadded construction
- Match coat colour to suit (dark with dark, earth with earth)
- Keep lapels simple — notch or peak, nothing ornate
✗ Don't
- Wear a cropped or bomber-length coat — it breaks the silhouette
- Leave it open and flapping — either button it or wear it open with intention
- Choose light colours — cream, camel, beige read as a different era entirely
- Add a scarf unless the setting is genuinely cold outdoors
Long Blue Coat | Long Black Coat | Long Grey Coat
Melange
Wool Blends
Deep blue
Deep blue melange Chesterfield Coat with peak lapels & contrasted buttonthreads
Tommy Shelby's Shoes and Boots
The footwear is the final piece and the most specific. Black cap-toe leather boots — lace-up, structured, without brogue punching — are the Shelby default. Brown leather appears too, especially when the suit skews more earth-toned. Thomas has also been spotted in brogues that add a period-appropriate texture without breaking the silhouette.
The rule is quality leather and a structured last. No rounded toes, no chunky soles, no elasticated panels. The boot should echo the architecture of the suit: sharp, intentional, and built to last.
Types of Footwear Tommy Shelby Wears
Shelby's footwear reflects his unyielding character — a blend of practicality and class. He often dons leather lace-up boots, perfect for Birmingham's cobblestones, or polished brogues that complement his tailored suits. To walk in Shelby's steps, choose sturdy boots for daily wear, and reserve sleek Oxford-style brogues for sharper, suit-clad occasions. Always opt for quality leather to echo his durable yet dapper aesthetic.
Brogue Boots in brown waxed leather, leather & tweed
Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man — What Changes for the Style
On 20 March 2026, Netflix released Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man — the long-awaited feature film that concludes Tommy Shelby's story. Directed by Tom Harper and written by series creator Steven Knight, the film sees Cillian Murphy return alongside Stephen Graham, Sophie Rundle, and newcomers Rebecca Ferguson, Tim Roth, and Barry Keoghan. The reception has been exceptional: 92% on Rotten Tomatoes and 7.5M trailer views within days of release.
The film is set in November 1940 — roughly fifteen years after the original series — during the Birmingham Blitz. The wardrobe reflects this shift: the 1920s tweed three-pieces give way to a darker, more wartime palette. But Tommy Shelby's fundamental sartorial instinct — disciplined tailoring, muted colours, nothing unnecessary — remains completely intact. The man may have aged; the clothes have only sharpened.
For anyone building a Shelby-inspired wardrobe, the film is a reminder that this style is not nostalgia. It is a coherent approach to dressing that has proven itself across four decades of screen time. The silhouette works because it was built on principle, not trend.
No Spoilers
Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man is now streaming on Netflix. We're keeping this section spoiler-free — but if you haven't watched yet, consider it required viewing alongside the wardrobe guide.
How to Dress Like Tommy Shelby Today
The phrase "dress for the job you want, not the one you have" applies here. If you aspire to Shelby's level of command and precision, dressing the part is the first signal you send. The three-piece suit is the cornerstone. Build from there.
At Hockerty, every suit is made to measure — which means the silhouette Shelby demands is achievable without a Savile Row budget. Choose your fabric (tweed or corduroy for authenticity), specify peak lapels and a matching waistcoat, and let the tailoring do what Tommy's tailor did for him: make you look like someone who has already decided the outcome.
| Piece | What to Choose | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Suit | Tweed or corduroy 3-piece, peak lapels, high-rise trouser | Slim lapels, slim-cut modern suit, 2-piece without waistcoat |
| Shirt | Club collar, white or soft stripe, top button done, no tie | Spread collar with tie, open collar, bold pattern |
| Coat | Long wool overcoat, dark navy/charcoal/black, structured | Short parka, light-coloured coat, unstructured topcoat |
| Boots | Black or dark brown cap-toe leather, lace-up, no brogue holes | Chunky soles, Chelsea boots, suede in light tones |
| Palette | Charcoal, navy, dark brown, grey, white shirt | Bright colours, pastels, bold prints, anything high-contrast |
Hopsack
Breathable
2 Ply
Navy blue lightweight stretch hopsack Suit
Twill
Melange
Iron gray
Iron grey super 100s year-round Suit with pocket square
Pinstripe
Wool Blends
Twill
Charcoal pinstripe super 100s double-breasted Suit
2 Ply
Soft touch
Pinstripe
Mid grey pinstripe stretch nehru Suit
Cotton Blend
Velvet
Paisley
Navy blue paisley velvet Suit
Cotton Blend
Velvet
Paisley
Black paisley velvet Suit
Bouclé
Shiny
Celebration
Blue limited edition Suit
Tommy Shelby's Style Evolution: Season by Season
One of the most remarkable things about the Peaky Blinders wardrobe is that it tells its own story. As Tommy Shelby rises from Small Heath gang leader to Member of Parliament, his clothing tracks every step — quietly, precisely, and with the kind of intent that made costume designer Stephanie Collie and later Alison McCosh essential storytellers in their own right.
| Season | Style Direction |
|---|---|
| Season 1 | Raw workwear roots. Heavy tweed, collarless shirts, dark waistcoats worn as outerwear. Tommy looks like his environment — the streets of Small Heath. The flat cap is a uniform, not an accessory. |
| Season 2 | The club collar appears. Suits become fitted three-pieces. Tommy is moving up — his clothes arrive before his reputation does. The palette stays earthy but the construction sharpens. |
| Season 3 | Peak Shelby elegance. Peak lapels widen, overcoats lengthen, the waistcoat is now inseparable from the suit. Tommy is wealthy enough to dress with quiet precision — and dangerous enough that the restraint reads as a threat. |
| Season 4 | Darker palette, heavier wool. The suits carry weight — both literal and figurative. Charcoal and near-black dominate. Tommy dresses like a man who expects violence. |
| Season 5 | Political power. Softer wool, more structured shoulders, longer coat silhouettes. Tommy as MP looks the part — Westminster tailoring with a Birmingham edge. Navy blue enters the rotation prominently. |
| Season 6 | Stripped back. Mortality haunts the wardrobe — fewer layers, simpler construction, an almost monastic restraint. The suits are still impeccable but the man inside them is diminishing. Costume as elegy. |
| The Immortal Man | Wartime 1940. Costume designer Alison McCosh deliberately opens the film with Tommy in a silk turtleneck and shawl-collar cardigan — unrecognisable as the Tommy we know. As the plot tightens, the tailoring returns. The final act sees the sharpest three-piece in the entire franchise. |
Cillian Murphy: The Man Behind the Suit
It is worth noting that the man who plays Tommy Shelby has become a genuine style icon in his own right. Cillian Murphy — intensely private, famously resistant to social media — lets his red-carpet choices speak for him. And they speak volumes.
After winning the Best Actor Oscar in 2024 for Oppenheimer, Murphy appeared in a custom Atelier Versace suit that became one of the most discussed looks of awards season. The partnership continued — he fronted the Versace Icons campaign alongside Anne Hathaway, lending the kind of understated gravity that few actors bring to fashion advertising.
At the 2026 BAFTAs — just weeks before The Immortal Man premiered — he wore custom Ferragamo SS26, styled by Rose Forde Studio. The suit was minimal, perfectly proportioned, and deliberately quiet. No pocket square, no flashy tie, no statement accessory. The parallel to Tommy Shelby is obvious: the power is in the cut, not the decoration.
His recent British GQ features have reinforced this image. Whether shot by Gregory Harris for the March 2024 cover or profiled ahead of the Peaky Blinders premiere, Murphy consistently projects the same philosophy that defines Shelby: dress simply, dress precisely, let the tailoring do the talking.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Thomas Shelby's style called?
Thomas Shelby's style is often described as vintage gangster chic or 1920s British working class formal. It combines early twentieth-century workwear heritage — tweed, corduroy, flat cap, club collar — with refined, tailored pieces that project authority. The result is a distinctive look that sits somewhere between business formal and period costume, with enough contemporary relevance to work in a modern context.
Can I wear Tommy Shelby's style in a modern workplace?
Absolutely. Tommy Shelby's style, while vintage in origin, is timeless in execution. A well-fitted tweed suit, a club collar shirt, and leather boots or brogues will read as considered and refined in most professional settings. The three-piece construction may feel formal in casual offices but is entirely appropriate for client-facing roles, creative industries, and business meetings.
Is the Peaky Blinders movie out?
Yes. Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man premiered in select cinemas on 6 March 2026 and began streaming globally on Netflix on 20 March 2026. Directed by Tom Harper and written by Steven Knight, it stars Cillian Murphy, Barry Keoghan, Rebecca Ferguson, Tim Roth, and Stephen Graham. It scored 92% on Rotten Tomatoes.
What fabric does Tommy Shelby's suit use?
Tommy Shelby favours tweed and corduroy for most of his suits — both textured, robust fabrics that were genuinely popular in 1920s Birmingham. He occasionally wears wool for more formal occasions. All are constructed as three-piece suits with a matching waistcoat.
What shirt does Tommy Shelby wear?
His most iconic shirt is the club collar shirt — characterised by its rounded collar, typically buttoned to the top with no tie. He wears it in white or a subtle stripe, often in premium cotton. The club collar became popular in the early twentieth century and experienced a revival thanks to Mad Men and subsequently Peaky Blinders.
What boots does Tommy Shelby wear?
Black cap-toe leather lace-up boots are Shelby's signature footwear — structured, without ornamental brogue punching, and suited to both city streets and the kind of environments a man in his position frequents. Brown leather boots also appear, particularly when the suit is in warmer earth tones.
Build Your Custom Suit at Hockerty
Do you need more vintage style inspiration? Read more in our post about how to dress like a Peaky Blinder or explore our guide to tweed suits — the fabric at the heart of the Shelby aesthetic.
